Surfing, Jack London remarked, is “a royal sport for the natural kings of earth.” The greatest of those natural kings grant readers an audience in this glorious celebration of the world’s best surfers. Part exquisite picture book and travelogue to the top of the world, part biography and reference guidebook, Legends of Surfing profiles one hundred great surfers, men and women, from throughout the world. In life stories, and in exclusive interviews--which only the surfing icon Duke Boyd could have pulled off--stellar surfers such as Wayne Bartholomew, Tom Curren, Andy and Bruce Irons, Duke Kahanamoku, Dave Kalama, Gerry Lopez, Rob Machado, Mark Occhilupo, and Kelly Slater give us a rare firsthand look at what it’s like, in this crowded world, to “seek and find the perfect day, the perfect wave, and be alone with the surf and his thoughts.” (John Severson, Surfer magazine, 1960)
THE SURFING YEAR BOOK OFFERS the complete package of news, features, results, opinions, and photography, providing an insider's view of everything that matters in each of the world's surfing regions-Africa, Europe, Southeast Asia and Japan, South and Central America, United States, United Kingdom, and Australia. An extended Surfing Year Book awareness campaign is underway at Surfersvillage.com, the world's biggest surfing news Web site, with more than twenty-two million visitor sessions a year. Surfersvillage will also utilize its large family of publishing partners around the world to advertise the book's arrival in all surfing markets. With each regional section offering text in English and language of origin, the book will have broad appeal in all world surfing markets. Photo essays from the best surf photographers around the world; profiles of all the leading surfers of 2008. Ocean environmental issues, weather, and swell reports. The only global directory of surfing products and services. International sponsors include: O'Neill, Quiksilver, Vans Europe, Oakley Europe, Solitude, Billabong, Hurley, Rip Curl, and Body Glove. Online marketing and promotions. Print and web advertising campaign. Co-op available. For years, Surfersvillage has led the world in providing the most comprehensive online information about the sport, culture, and industry of surfing, from the biggest swell events and contests to the tiniest club meets on the back beaches of the most remote coasts.
A follow-up to the classic "Surfing in South Africa", this is a new book, completely revised and updated. Written by Spike (Steve Pike), founder of the cult surfing website Wavescape.co.za, it comprises chapters on history, big waves, spots, culture, travel, oceanography, sharks (including a timeline of shark attacks) and a hilarious 'Surfrican' slang glossary. The book is illustrated with 180 graphics, cartoons and photographs. You will find quirky descriptions of surf spots along almost 3,000 km of coast (watch out for the razor-toothed tortoise), a photo essay of surfing personalities by acclaimed photographer Harry de Zitter, as well as colourful journalism from top writers covering subjects connected to the surfing lifestyle. The full-colour book, which is 110 pages bigger than the previous book, is an indispensable resource. Images come from top South African photographers, such as Barry Tuck, Tom Peschak, Michael Dei-Cont, Andy Mason, Lance Slabbert, Brenton Geach, and Pierre Marqua. The contributors of words added spice to an eclectic mix of culture and science. An original piece by Paul Botha forms the backbone to a much-expanded history chapter. Tom Peschak adds gravitas to issues around sharks and conservation. The brave life of John Whitmore is poignantly remembered by Tony Heard. Ross Frylinck gives gritty insights into the forlorn splendour of the Diamond Coast. Tongue in cheek, Gideon Malherbe uncovers our surfing addiction. Henri du Plessis provides a profile of a committed exponent of that addiction. Tony Weaver eloquently tackles the challenge of sharing the sea with sharks. Ben Trovato romps through issues around surfing evolution and lifeguards in skimpy Speedos.
Author Don Nardo examines the many aspects of science underlying the popular sport of surfing. This book discusses the physics of waves, the science behind board shape and how riders stay on the board, covering the principles of gravity, buoyancy, and water surface tension. It also covers the scientific principles behind movements such as popping-up on the board; catching a wave; riding a wave; turning; the "hang-ten"; the "duck dive"; the "turtle roll"; and others. Other connections to science are made through discussion of wiping out, rip currents, collisions and typical injuries, hypothermia, and shark attacks. This volume discusses psychological aspects, especially anxiety.
The act of surfing involves highly-skilled humans gliding, sliding, or otherwise riding waves of energy as they pass through water. As this book argues, however, this act of surfing does not exist in isolation. It is defined by the cultures and geographies that synergize with it – by the places, ideas, images, and other representations which at once reflect, create, and commodify this spatial practice. This book innovatively explores the spaces of surf and surf-riding, informed specifically by the perspective of human geography. Based on a range of critical turns within the social sciences, the book explores the locations, relational sensibilities, and transformative nature of surfing spaces, and examines how the spatial practice has been scripted by dominant surfing cultures. The book details how prescriptive (b)orders of access, entitlement, and marginalization have been created, and how, with the advent of new craft, media, and ideals, they are being actively challenged to redefine surfing spaces in the twenty-first century.
Surfing and Sustainability presents a new way of understanding the impact of surfing on the environment, society and the economy, providing important insights into the field of sustainability and arguing that the activity of surfing offers a unique opportunity to explore the ambiguity of sustainability. The book contextualises surfing within current debates on sustainability and applies these debates to an innovative theoretical framework drawn from elements of a risk society and sociotechnical transitions. The book discusses the capacity of surfing to influence behaviour, both at an individual and organisational level, exploring sustainability from a range of perspectives including industry, the charity sector, media and celebrity culture. Featuring a range of international case studies, it analyses the greening of the surf industry through topics such as ECOBOARD surfboard manufacturing, business innovation and branding, environmental activism, information technology and surf forecasting, as well as the expansion of artificial wave technology. The book also considers the future directions of surfing and how the inclusion of surfing in the 2020 Olympic Games will impact sustainability debates. This is important reading for academics and scholars, as well as undergraduate and postgraduate students working and studying in sports studies, sociology, geography, economics, psychology, marine science, coastal management and economics. It is also a valuable resource for practitioners across the globe.
Whilst being an ambiguous and contested concept, sustainability has become one of the twenty-first century’s most pervasive ideas, as humanity’s increasing impact on the environment, as well as increasing social and economic inequalities, have local and global consequences. Surfing is a globally recognised cultural phenomenon whose unique connection with nature and rapid expansion into a multibillion pound industry offers exciting synergies for exploring various dimensions of sustainability. This book is the first to bring together the world’s foremost experts on the themes of sustainability and surfing. Drawing upon cutting edge theory and research, this book offers multidisciplinary perspectives and methodological approaches on the social, environmental and economic components of sustainable surfing. Contributions provide unique discussions that bridge the gap between theory and practice, exploring topics such as sustainable surf tourism, surf-econometrics, surf activism, surfing governance, the surfing industry, and technological advancements. Each chapter produces in-depth insights to provide foundational insights of the relationship between sustainability and surfing. This book will appeal to multiple audiences in different disciplines and sectors. Practitioners will benefit from the insights presented in this volume, while both undergraduate and postgraduate students will find this volume an invaluable companion, including those working in geography, environmental studies, sport sciences, and leisure and tourism studies.
One of the most popular and exciting water sports in the world, surfing has a rich history dating back to at least the eighteenth century. The International Surfing Association estimates there are more than twenty-three million surfers worldwide. Windsurfing's popularity peaked in 1984, but by the mid-1990s, it began a rapid decline. Today, however, the sport is again gaining momentum, and younger generations are learning what a fun and exciting sport it is. Readers will learn the history of both sports, the skills and equipment needed to participate in them, and how to surf and windsurf safel.
Surfing has emerged from ancient roots to become a twenty-first century phenomenon – an ‘alternative’ sport, lifestyle and art form with a global profile and ever-increasing numbers of participants. Drawing on popular surf culture, academic literature and the analytical tools of social theory, this book is the first sustained commentary on the contemporary social and cultural meaning of surfing. Core themes of mind and body, emotions and identity, aesthetics, style, and sensory experience are explored through a variety of topics, and particular attention is paid to: * evolving perceptions of the sea and the beach * the globalization of surfing * surfing as a subculture and lifestyle * the embodiment and gendering of surfing. Surfing and Social Theory is an original and theoretically rigorous text that sets the agenda for future work in this area. Along with the Surf Science courses now appearing in universities around the world, this text provides students and researchers in sport, sociology, culture and geography with a new perspective and a thought-provoking text.
Over the last forty years, surfing has emerged from its Pacific islands origins to become a global industry. Since its beginnings more than a thousand years ago, surfing’s icon has been the surfboard—its essential instrument, the point of physical connection between human and nature, body and wave. To a surfer, a board is more than a piece of equipment; it is a symbol, a physical emblem of cultural, social, and emotional meanings. Based on research in three important surfing locations—Hawai‘i, southern California, and southeastern Australia—this is the first book to trace the surfboard from regional craft tradition to its key role in the billion-dollar surfing business. The surfboard workshops of Hawai‘i, California, and Australia are much more than sites of surfboard manufacturing. They are hives of creativity where legacies of rich cultural heritage and the local environment combine to produce unique, bold board designs customized to suit prevailing waves. The globalization and corporatization of surfing have presented small, independent board makers with many challenges stemming from the wide availability of cheap, mass-produced boards and the influx of new surfers. The authors follow the story of board makers who have survived these challenges and stayed true to their calling by keeping the mythology and creativity of board making alive. In addition, they explore the heritage of the craft, the secrets of custom board production, the role of local geography in shaping board styles, and the survival of hand-crafting skills. From the olo boards of ancient Hawaiian kahuna to the high-tech designs that represent the current state of the industry, Surfing Places, Surfboard Makers offers an entrée into the world of surfboard making that will find an eager audience among researchers and students of Pacific culture, history, geography, and economics, as well as surfing enthusiasts.