Three expert physicians/surfers trained in emergency medicine, sports medicine, and family medicine explain everything you need to know to stay safe in the water. Whether you’re a novice or an expert, an SUPer or a bodyboarder, Surf Survival is the only book that every surfer must have in his or her backpack, car, and beach house. This practical handbook explains everything from how to reduce a shoulder dislocation to understanding waves and currents, from how to treat jellyfish stings to how to apply a tourniquet. Whether you are surfing a crowded beach in California or a remote island in Indonesia, be prepared to handle surfing-related emergencies from hypothermia and drowning to wound care and infections. Topics include: • Fitness for surfers • Prevention and rehabilitation of common overuse injuries • Wilderness first aid • Surviving the sun • Surf-travel medicine • Surviving big surf • SUP • Surfer's ear • And much, much more! Written by three expert physician surfers, packed with color photos and illustrations, this is the authoritative medical guide for surfers and watermen.
A book of brilliant, adventurous stories from the award-winning Doug Dorst. With the publication of his debut novel, Alive in Necropolis, Doug Dorst was widely celebrated as one of the most creative, original literary voices of his generation-an heir to T.C. Boyle and Denis Johnson, a northern California Haruki Murakami. Now, in his second book, The Surf Guru, his full talent is on display, revealing an ability to explore worlds and capture characters that other writers have not yet discovered. In the title story, an old surfing-champion-turned-surfwear- entrepreneur sits on his ocean-front balcony watching a new generation of surfers come of age on the waves, all but one of whom wear wet suits emblazoned with the Surf Guru's name. An acid-tongued, pioneering botanist who has been exiled from the academy composes a series of scurrilous (and hilarious) biographical sketches of his colleagues and rivals, inadvertently telling his own story. A pair of twenty-first- century drifters course through a series of unusual adventures in their dilapidated car, chased west out of one town and into the next, dreaming of hitting the Pacific. Dorst's characters have all successfully cultivated a particular expertise, and yet they remain intent on moving toward the horizon, seeking hope in something new. Likewise, each of Dorst's stories is a virtuoso performance balancing humor and insight, achieving a perfect pitch, pulsing with a gritty and punchy, distinctly American realism- and yet always pushing on into the unexpected, taking us some place new.
Author Don Nardo examines the many aspects of science underlying the popular sport of surfing. This book discusses the physics of waves, the science behind board shape and how riders stay on the board, covering the principles of gravity, buoyancy, and water surface tension. It also covers the scientific principles behind movements such as popping-up on the board; catching a wave; riding a wave; turning; the "hang-ten"; the "duck dive"; the "turtle roll"; and others. Other connections to science are made through discussion of wiping out, rip currents, collisions and typical injuries, hypothermia, and shark attacks. This volume discusses psychological aspects, especially anxiety.
Dont let the title mislead. This book is about surfing and the people who lived the surfing experience in Australia in the 1970s and, through flashbacks, to as early as the 1950s. The title refers to the dilemma of the lead character, Alexander Scott. He is trapped by family circumstances in a place that can never satisfy his needs. He loses his father at a young age and is brought unwillingly out of a very sheltered upbringing. Though his stepfather cares for him, he is unable to provide the father figure Alex needs. Surfing provides the escape, but it also puts him in conflict with his family. When his mother passes away, his stepfather remarries, and Alex is left with two stepparents and a family to whom he cannot relate emotionally. His stepsister provides a partial bridge, but in reality, they are worlds apart. She is a product of the wealthy Sydney society while Alex prefers his surfing companions. When Alex meets Julianne Cameron, there is an instant rapport. She becomes the love of his life, and he sees a way to find the emotional peace he seeks. But Julianne is cruelly taken from him in an accident that leaves Alex with injuries from which he can never recover.