Surfing, Jack London remarked, is “a royal sport for the natural kings of earth.” The greatest of those natural kings grant readers an audience in this glorious celebration of the world’s best surfers. Part exquisite picture book and travelogue to the top of the world, part biography and reference guidebook, Legends of Surfing profiles one hundred great surfers, men and women, from throughout the world. In life stories, and in exclusive interviews--which only the surfing icon Duke Boyd could have pulled off--stellar surfers such as Wayne Bartholomew, Tom Curren, Andy and Bruce Irons, Duke Kahanamoku, Dave Kalama, Gerry Lopez, Rob Machado, Mark Occhilupo, and Kelly Slater give us a rare firsthand look at what it’s like, in this crowded world, to “seek and find the perfect day, the perfect wave, and be alone with the surf and his thoughts.” (John Severson, Surfer magazine, 1960)
Surfing traces the history of the sport from its beginnings in ancient Hawaii through the mid 1960s. This revised edition of the 1966 classic features extensive illustrations, a new introduction, and articles by Mark Twain and Jack London recounting their observations on surfing. The book also explores the development of the surfboard and follows surfing's timeline from the earliest legends to the accomplishments of modern surfing heroes.
The inside story of the lives of 25 of Australia's sporting greats, written by sports broadcaster, Peter Meares. His friendships have allowed him unprecedented access to their lives and the secrets of their success. Includes profiles on Greg Norman, Leigh Matthews, Greg Chappell, Pam Burridge, Margaret Court and David Campese.
Three expert physicians/surfers trained in emergency medicine, sports medicine, and family medicine explain everything you need to know to stay safe in the water. Whether you’re a novice or an expert, an SUPer or a bodyboarder, Surf Survival is the only book that every surfer must have in his or her backpack, car, and beach house. This practical handbook explains everything from how to reduce a shoulder dislocation to understanding waves and currents, from how to treat jellyfish stings to how to apply a tourniquet. Whether you are surfing a crowded beach in California or a remote island in Indonesia, be prepared to handle surfing-related emergencies from hypothermia and drowning to wound care and infections. Topics include: • Fitness for surfers • Prevention and rehabilitation of common overuse injuries • Wilderness first aid • Surviving the sun • Surf-travel medicine • Surviving big surf • SUP • Surfer's ear • And much, much more! Written by three expert physician surfers, packed with color photos and illustrations, this is the authoritative medical guide for surfers and watermen.
Surfing Life is a study of surfing and social change that also provides insights into other experience-based contemporary subcultures and the nature of the self and social formations in contemporary society. Making use of extensive empirical material to support innovative theoretical approaches to social change, this book offers an analysis of the relationship between embodied experience, culture and the economy. With its ground breaking theoretical contributions, and its foundation in an ethnographic study of surfing culture in locations across Australia, this volume will appeal not only to those interested in the social and cultural phenomenon of surfing, but also to anyone interested in the sociology of sport and leisure, the sociology of culture and consumption, risk-taking, subcultures and theories of contemporary social change.
Virginia Beach and the Outer Banks share an incredibly rich surfing history. Virginia Beach is home to major surfing institutions so iconic and long lasting they are simply referred to as "ECSC," "WRV" and "17th Street." Of course, the Outer Banks has the consistent waves. The barrels. The lighthouse. Its beaches have been the setting for iconic moments in the history of the Eastern Surfing Association. Local surfing historian Tony Lillis chronicles the rich history of surfing along Virginia Beach and the Outer Banks from the early twentieth century, when world travelers brought home tales of Hawaiian surfing, through the heyday of the 1960s and into the twenty-first century.
THE SURFING YEAR BOOK OFFERS the complete package of news, features, results, opinions, and photography, providing an insider's view of everything that matters in each of the world's surfing regions-Africa, Europe, Southeast Asia and Japan, South and Central America, United States, United Kingdom, and Australia. An extended Surfing Year Book awareness campaign is underway at Surfersvillage.com, the world's biggest surfing news Web site, with more than twenty-two million visitor sessions a year. Surfersvillage will also utilize its large family of publishing partners around the world to advertise the book's arrival in all surfing markets. With each regional section offering text in English and language of origin, the book will have broad appeal in all world surfing markets. Photo essays from the best surf photographers around the world; profiles of all the leading surfers of 2008. Ocean environmental issues, weather, and swell reports. The only global directory of surfing products and services. International sponsors include: O'Neill, Quiksilver, Vans Europe, Oakley Europe, Solitude, Billabong, Hurley, Rip Curl, and Body Glove. Online marketing and promotions. Print and web advertising campaign. Co-op available. For years, Surfersvillage has led the world in providing the most comprehensive online information about the sport, culture, and industry of surfing, from the biggest swell events and contests to the tiniest club meets on the back beaches of the most remote coasts.
A pop culture reference of surfing in America today contains 1,500 alphabetical entries and three hundred illustrations to review the activity's most significant contributors, events, equipment, culture, and history. Reprint.
The evolution of surfing—from the first forms of wave-riding in Oceania, Africa, and the Americas to the inauguration of surfing as a competitive sport at the 2020 Tokyo Olympics—traverses the age of empire, the rise of globalization, and the onset of the digital age, taking on new meanings at each juncture. As corporations have sought to promote surfing as a lifestyle and leisure enterprise, the sport has also narrated its own epic myths that place North America at the center of surf culture and relegate Hawai‘i and other indigenous surfing cultures to the margins. The Critical Surf Studies Reader brings together eighteen interdisciplinary essays that explore surfing's history and development as a practice embedded in complex and sometimes oppositional social, political, economic, and cultural relations. Refocusing the history and culture of surfing, this volume pays particular attention to reclaiming the roles that women, indigenous peoples, and people of color have played in surfing. Contributors. Douglas Booth, Peter Brosius, Robin Canniford, Krista Comer, Kevin Dawson, Clifton Evers, Chris Gibson, Dina Gilio-Whitaker, Dexter Zavalza Hough-Snee, Scott Laderman, Kristin Lawler, lisahunter, Colleen McGloin, Patrick Moser, Tara Ruttenberg, Cori Schumacher, Alexander Sotelo Eastman, Glen Thompson, Isaiah Helekunihi Walker, Andrew Warren, Belinda Wheaton
This book is a must read for all East Coast surfers who may have felt at sometime that they should apologize for where they are from. The stories and pictures in this book are sure to make the East Coast surfer proud, while sharing a universal story line with surfers all around the world. These stories could very well have taken place in Hawaii or California but, they didn't. The major theme is an eighteen-mile barrier island off the New Jersey coastline known as Long Beach Island (LBI). Every individual in this book is somehow connected to the island. Through a series of short stories from the 1930s to the 21st Century, you will be moved by what these individuals have accomplished in the surfing community as well as the "real world." Turn the pages to find out who is an innovator of snowboard technology; a photo editor for Surfer magazine; writer/producer of a Nickelodeon cartoon; and an award recipient from the president of the United States. Meet local surfing legends: Wimpy, Tinker, and Huckleberry. Find out what surfing pioneers did in the days before surfing wetsuits and wax. Travel around the world and through time for: Surfing in Vietnam during the Vietnam War; Running a surf hostile in Puerto Rico in the 1990s; Capturing storm surf on film for the last twenty years from all over the globe. Learn what unique surfing product came to a local surfer in a dream and how the internationally known franchise - Ron Jon Surf Shop, got its start on LBI. You're sure to enjoy the "Why We Surf" section with unedited material from our local surfers, ages fifteen to sixty-three. Hear about some of their most memorable surfing experiences and gain their deepest insights about this incredible sport and lifestyle. The book has over one hundred pictures from family collections, 60s surf magazines, and professional portfolios of some of the top surfing photographers. Surfing collectors will especially enjoy some of the vintage material. "Surfing the Web" will give you the links you need for everything from weather information to lodging on LBI. For those of you who are still learning about LBI, "Local Breaks" gives you the "low-down" about surfing conditions and even parking. There is something in Surfing LBI for surfers of every age and level of expertise. It's a "feel good" book that will leave you stoked every time you open it.